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Couple Swear by Cheese
Article by Merle Foster, Katikati
Advertiser 4th August 2009
A saying conjured up for
cheese-making is "good things take time" and while true
for the process, it has taken only the cusp of two years
for a Katikati family to achieve a loyal local following
for their product.
"One goal is to be as
locally made as possible", says Jill Whalley of the Mt Eliza brand
(named for a Kaimai peak). Another is to achieve
zero-waste from their factory and both have been
successful with leftovers from production given to pigs.
We are also working with
Food & safety Authority towards being able to use
unpasteurised local milk. It may be a long way off but
there is no reason why we cannot produce
cheese as good as that found in France. Meanwhile, cheesemaker Chris Whalley experiments with processes and
flavours, while the popularity of the cheese grows
The recipes we are using
are hundreds of years old, steeped in tradition. Mrs
Whalley says. "Records of Cheshire cheese like ours go
back to the Roman times, and the Endeavour that came to
New Zealand with captain Cook aboard would have had a
round or two of cheese like this"
With a hard traditional
rind, Red Leicester, a popular cheese in Mt Eliza's
range has a rich smooth flavour that is "mouth-filling
but not aggressive". The bright orange colour comes from
an extract of a South American berry.
"The cheese merchants in
the 8th century used to test Double Gloucester by
jumping on it with both feet - if the rind cracked it
was deemed unfit to travel!"
"Intense concentration" is
how she describes her husbands cheese-making. It's about
being meticulous and recording what you do so you use
the same method each time.
Once curd is formed it is
cut and the whey released. Surprisingly, 1000 litres of
milk creates only 100kg of cheese. Once drained, the
cheese curd left in the vat, where a maturation process
starts straight away, is dry-salted, hooped into moulds
and pressed overnight.
The next day it is
bandaged and put in a storage room set at precise
temperature and humidity levels for up to a year or
longer.
The couple sell their
cheese at the Village Pantry in Tepuna (Village@7)
and have a stall on Friday night at the Plant & Produce
market in Katikati.
Their blue cheese has been
so popular they have run out, although it will return to
the market before the end of the month.
We are starting to
distribute to delis around the country now.
"We want to be a
high-quality farmhouse cheese factory and we have the
capacity to grow,' Mrs Whalley says.
"We're unique. We've
decided to make something to stand out from the crowd -
cloth ripened, traditionally rinded cheese.
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